An Artistic Endeavor

Posted By Slade on May 31, 2010

After experimenting with various woods, thicknesses, supports and grounds, and after extensive research online, books and articles.  I believe that I’ve found a relatively fast, reliable method of preparing high quality wooden panels.

Wood

Since I generally paint on a small scale (16” x 20” maximum), I’ve found that building and attaching supports to keep thinner substrates from warping is a step that can be avoided by using thicker high-grade plywood.  Although 3/8 inch ply should suffice for sizes under 16 x 20 inches, I prefer to minimize any chances of warping by using ½ in.

½ inch grade B (or BB) Baltic Birch plywood is my preferred choice.  There are many types of hardwood ply types and depending on your desired results and application, most will work, but I find the fine grain and overall smooth texture of Baltic Birch ply provides an excellent foundation for a smooth finished panel.

Take care when buying plywood that it is made of one-piece layers stacked horizontal/vertical or so that the grain of each layer runs perpendicular to each succeeding layer.  This type of plywood manufacturing is known for it’s exceptional strength and resilliantcy against warping and bowing.

Materials Needed:

• Baltic Birch ½ inch plywood
• Rubbing Alchohol
• Wax paper
• 1” Loew-Cornell 1177 Brown Nylon Brush
• Acrylic Gesso (I prefer Liquitex)
• Golden (brand) Sandable Hard Gesso
• 200 grit garnet sandpaper
• Damar Retouch Varnish (liquid)

Gesso Types:

There are a lot of artists who will devote hours of painstaking labor into making their materials in the tradition of the old masters or because hand made materials are generally of higher quality (which is why I prepare my own painting surfaces).  Store bought panels can have less than desirable finish flaws, warp and even crack.  But when it comes to gesso, I feel comfortable in leaving it to the professional manufacturers and I’ve never had any problems with any over the counter gesso products.

Since the science of painting sometimes brings out the scientist in us, it’s all too easy to get wrapped up in experimenting and making artist’s materials, leaving us with little time to paint.  In a perfect world we’d have assistants to grind and mix pigments and prepare panels but these days we have to pick our handmade vs. store-bought battles.

The Process:

1. Cut plywood to size and sand with 200 grit sand paper.  Lightly round off the corners and hard edges that can keep the gesso from bonding all the way around the board.  Slight scratches, divots and irregularities will eventually be covered with gesso, but you’ll want to sand away any protrusions.
2. Before applying gesso wipe off any excess dust with a towel and remove residual oils by gently cleaning all sides of the panel with a clean towel and rubbing alcohol.  You are now ready to start applying the gesso.
3. With a soft square brush, my favorite being a 1” Loew-Cornell 1177 Brown Nylon (also great for varnishing), brush on a thin coat of regular acrylic gesso in a horizontal direction to the face.  Work the gesso in to the surface and sides and lightly level out the brush strokes.  Let it dry for approximately 2 hours.
4. Once the top and sides have dried thoroughly enough that you feel comfortable flipping it over, lay down a sheet of wax paper and repeat step 2 on the backside of the panel.  Be careful to keep the gesso from running onto the face.  Let dry for another 2 hours.  This coating that will create a strong bond all the way around the panel and will provide a counter layer that will reduce warping and yield a more aesthetically pleasing finished panel.  No additional gesso coats are necessary for the back and sides but you can apply them if desired.  Let dry for 4 hours.
5. Once the face is completely dry.  Lightly sand all sides with 200 grit sand paper focusing on sanding down high spots and very slightly rounding the edges.
6. Wipe away dust with a dry towel and apply gesso perpendicular to the first coat.  Sand let dry for about 6 hours and repeat this step always apply perpendicular to the previous layer until you have completed 5 coats.
7. Sand the final regular gesso coat and apply Golden (brand) Sandable Hard Gesso is the same fashion, sanding between coats until you’ve applied at least 3 coats.  The Sandable Hard Gesso is excellent for achieving an ivory finish in about half the sanding time.  Let completely dry for at least 8 hours.
8. After the final coat is dry sand with 200 grit sand paper until you have reach your desired surface texture.  Personally I like a perfectly smooth ivory-like finish so that the tooth of the panel doesn’t detract from the realism effect.  Wipe away dust and you are ready for the sealing layer
9. I usually draw a pencil outline of my composition directly on the panel, this step helps to seal the pencil so that the graphite doesn’t lift while painting.  Sealing will also help reduce the gesso’s absorbency and keep the paints oils from “sinking in” leaving you with dead/flat spots.  Apply a “very” thin coat of Damar Retouch Varnish evenly to the back, let dry for 4 hours and apply it to the face.  Careful not to let it pool – keep it very thin.  Damar Retouch Varnish is 50% Damar Varnish and 50% turpentine, it will evaporate very fast leaving a varnish coat that is nearly undetectable by sight or touch.  Let dry for 8 hours – you are now ready to paint!!!

Category: Preparing Painting Panels
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